08/03/26 thru 08/05/26 – Catching up while incommunicado in Daintree rainforest

08/03/2026 – Daintree Rainforest…it rains in the rainforest – even in the “dry season”!

We arose early and went to enjoy the breakfast at the lodge.  Dave enjoyed his cereal and fresh fruit while Kathy ate a lot of bread, freshly baked bread not just any old bread. It was still warm from the oven!  Afterwards, we set off to find some “tracks” (which we call “trails”) and do some “trekking” (which we call hiking.)  We headed north and tried to find the Dubuji Boardwalk.  After the road we were on stopped being a road and started being a goat path, we stopped along the side of the road to evaluate our situation.  We decided that we missed our trailhead and needed to turn around.  Just then, a park employee drove up and advised us that we should probably turn around.  Great minds think alike!  We eventually found the trailhead and walked the short boardwalk through a swampy area.  We were excited as we spotted our first mammal that we could identify (at least the first one that doesn’t fly and hang in trees!)  We saw a wild pig!!  It was a nice walk and they had interpretive signs along the way to educate us about the rainforest ecosystem.

After that grand trek, we were famished, so lunch was next on the agenda.  We asked a couple of nearby rangers which of the two food shacks nearby we should eat at.  They pointed to the one across the road.  We went there and saw a sign advertising “barraburgers”.  Once we were advised that they were made of fish (presumably barracudas), we opted for something else – bacon beef burger for Kathy and a chicken burger for Dave.  Kathy topped hers off with a berry smoothie, while Dave chose the smoothie made with peanut butter.  Yum! Dave won the tasting wars in this case! His smoothie was way better than Kathy’s.

We did another small boardwalk trek called the Madja Boardwalk.  There, we saw a walking stick, but not much else. As we were leaving though feeling disappointed that the extent of our sightings was a walking stick we spied some large fruit bats fighting each other high in the trees. It was amazing to see so many just hanging out high above us.  We then decided to go to the third of our three destinations that were going to fill our 3 full days here in Daintree.  We went to the Discovery Center and walked through an elevated boardwalk midway up in the forest.  Just after we parked, we saw a bunch of people gathered around pointing their phones at something.  What is it, we asked?  A cassowary!!!  This is the third largest bird in the world and the one that Google warned us was the most dangerous encounter we could find in Daintree!  And there was some guy, 3 feet from the bird snapping photos.  Dave did get some photos from a respectable distance.  We did the walk carrying umbrellas provided by the Discovery Center.  They said it has been the wettest “dry season” any of them can remember.  Time to head back to the lodge and get ready for din-din.  We will also ask the front desk staff about setting us up with a tour or two for the next 2 days.  We wanted to hike a trail called Coopers Creek, but a sign at the trailhead said people can only walk this trail with an official guide.  Bummer!

08/04/2026 – Crocodile Dave

After dinner last night, we asked the front desk about booking tours for the next couple of days.  They were happy to oblige.  We asked them about the Coopers Creek tour, which was recommended to us by a lady in the grocery store.  The guy said he could call and make a reservation if we wanted.  He made the reservation, and explained the details afterwards.  That’s when we found out he had booked a boat tour to see crocodiles, instead of the hiking tour to see birds!  Oh, well, we still have time here and we can book the hiking tour for another day.

This morning we were able to book the hiking tour, which begins just down the road from where we are staying.  While at breakfast, we chatted with another couple from Arizona who had been on the Pro Dive Barrier Reef tour with us.  Chris and Jessica are heading to Bali to do some more diving after they leave Australia.

We made it to the croc tour.  It was run by one guy and his boat.  He takes the same route every time and knows where the crocs are – and where they aren’t.  Right across from the boat launch was a female croc hanging out on a beach near the mouth of Coopers Creek.  The captain said she pretty much ran the first two kilometers of the creek and chased any other females away.  He said that the government had killed a couple of males lately who had attacked some humans who got too close despite the many warning signs.  The female was getting lonely so he had developed an app for her:  Snap Me Up!  (The captain had a cheeky sense of humor!)  There was a man fishing on the other bank – pretty brave/stupid in our opinion.  We saw another female up the creek a ways, and then saw a giant male (about 10 meters in length!) on the way back downstream.  Aside from the 3 crocs, the only other thing we saw was a kingfisher.

After the croc tour, we went for lunch and reunited with another couple we had met on the Pro Dive Tour.  This couple was from Munich and they were spending several weeks tent camping in Australia.  They are headed to Alice Springs in a couple of days.  After lunch we did another couple of small hikes and then headed back to the lodge.  The lodge has TV’s in each room, but they have no reception.  They do provide several dozens of DVD’s which you can take back to your room.  We watched the old movie, “Stalag 17”, and now we know where the TV series “Hogan’s Heroes” came from. Even some of the characters names from the movie match some of them ones on the series.

08/05/2026 – A nice day filled with walkabouts

After our usual breakfast (cereal and fruit for Dave, peanut butter and marmalade on freshly made bread for Kathy), we went for a walk down the dirt road near the lodge.  Not much happening there.  But, then we headed for our 10 am hike along Coopers Creek.  There were 9 of us, plus the guide.  The guide owns the land we were to hike on.  He led us along a path and explained various things about the nature of birds, bugs, and vegetation in a rainforest.  It is a very complicated and intricate tale.  He showed us spiders that were so camouflaged that even after he pointed it out, we still could not see it until he took a photo of it and zoomed in on it.  He explained about a tree that evolved a unique way to cross pollinate.  The male trees heat up an extra 17 degree Celsius at 11 am.  This excessive heat drives the weavels off him.  They walk over to a female tree which has not heated up and carry the pollen with the male tree with them.  At 4 pm, the female tree heats up, driving the bugs back to a male tree which by then has cooled down.  They then carry the female’s pollen over to the male tree.  Who on God’s green Earth could have imagined that for a reproductive cycle??  The guide told us many stories about how nature is so interwoven that if any one thing is removed, it adversely affects so many other species.  And the native aborigines understood this harmony and enhanced it over the hundreds of generations they live there before being expelled by the government.

After the nature lesson on Coopers Creek, we drove south about an hour and a half to Mossman Gorge.  We had lunch, then trekked our favorite track of the entire trip.  The track had some hanging bridges, and elevated boardwalks, but most of it was just boots on the ground hiking over roots, rocks and dirt.  It was glorious!  Our favorite kind of trail.

On the drive back to the lodge for our last night in Daintree, we stopped at a campground which had a bar/restaurant that serves wood-fired pizzas.  Dave spotted a pizza on the menu that most resembled the kind of pizza we like best in the US, and it, too, was glorious!  Our favorite meal of the trip.

Kathy, prior to her getting ready for bed, went over to reception to log into the internet and complete her French lesson. Dave should have come with her.  While sitting at an outdoor table, a cute little bandicoot wandered into the area. A local guide explained to Kathy the difference between a bandicoot and a kangaroo rat. She also tried helping her get a picture of it to show Dave.  You know the saying:  no pic, no proof… it didn’t happen. Unfortunately, it was not in the picture. We didn’t even manage to get a picture of its bum as it scurried into the underbrush. Dave is just going to have to take her word for it this time.

Time to head back to the barn for our last night before we fly back to Sydney and then our flight home.

08/02/2026 – Daintree Rainforest…it rains in the rainforest – even in the “dry season”!

We arose early and went to enjoy the breakfast at the lodge.  Dave enjoyed his cereal and fresh fruit while Kathy ate a lot of bread.  Afterwards, we set off to find some “tracks” (which we call “trails”) and do some “trekking” (which we call hiking.)  We headed north and tried to find the Dubuji Boardwalk.  After the road we were on stopped being a road and started being a goat path, we stopped along the side of the road to evaluate our situation.  We decided that we missed our trailhead and needed to turn around.  Just then, a park employee drove up and advised us that we should probably turn around.  Great minds think alike!  We eventually found the trailhead and walked the short boardwalk through a swampy area.  We were excited as we spotted our first mammal that we could identify (at least the first one that doesn’t fly and hang in trees!)  We saw a wild pig!!  It was a nice walk and they had interpretive signs along the way to educate us about the rainforest ecosystem.

After that grand trek, we were famished, so lunch was next on the agenda.  We asked a couple of nearby rangers which of the two food shacks nearby we should eat at.  They pointed to the one across the road.  We went there and saw a sign advertising “barraburgers”.  Once we were advised that they were made of fish (presumably barracudas), we opted for something else – bacon beef burger for Kathy and a chicken burger for Dave.  Kathy topped hers off with a berry smoothie, which Dave chose the smoothie made with peanut butter.  Yum!

We did another small boardwalk trek called the Madja Boardwalk.  There, we saw a walking stick, but not much else. As we were leaving though feeling disappointed that the extent of our sightings was a walking stick we spied some large fruit bats fighting each other high in the trees. It was amazing to see so many just hanging out high above us.  We then decided to go to the third of our three destinations that were going to fill our 3 full days here in Daintree.  We went to the Discovery Center and walked through an elevated boardwalk midway up in the forest.  Just after we parked, we saw a bunch of people gathered around pointing their phones at something.  What is it, we asked?  A cassowary!!!  This is the third largest bird in the world and the one that Google warned us was the most dangerous encounter we could find in Daintree!  And there was some guy, 3 feet from the bird snapping photos.  Dave did get some photos from a respectable distance.  We did the walk carrying umbrellas provided by the Discovery Center.  They said it has been the wettest “dry season” any of them can remember.  Time to head back to the lodge and get ready for din-din.  We will also ask the front desk staff about setting us up with a tour or two for the next 2 days.  We wanted to hike a trail called Coopers Creek, but a sign at the trailhead said people can only walk this trail with an official guide.  Bummer!

07/30/2026 – 08/01/2027 – Well, we’ve been a little out of touch lately, and likely to stay that way

07/30/2026-07/31/2026 – Ahhh… the sounds that abound

From the birds singing “good morning!” to a wretched afternoon, the last two days have run the gamut. We woke up bright and early in the a.m. with the lorikeets singing their joyful morning songs that were as lively and beautiful as the colors of their feathers.  It was time to leave the beautiful Mountains with their endless waterfalls and steps that never seemed to stop. Hopping into our car, we set off for the airport to drop off our rental car and take our next flight to Cairns to see the Great Barrier Reef. Arriving early at the airport was a good option for us, especially since Virgin Airlines inefficiently handles the checking in of passengers. We waited in line, and waited, and waited, and finally got to a kiosk in order to self-check in for our flight and print our baggage tags. Next we waited and waited in line to drop off our luggage… same line, same wait, same questions on why it was so inefficient. Oh well, we finally made it to the security checkpoint, which went fairly well. Through the entire encounter all the way to landing in Cairns, we realized that no one at any point asked us for identification. That was a head scratcher for us!

Cairns, home of the amazing Great Barrier Reef – known all over the world for their coral reefs and amazing aquatic species. The temperature was also much nicer than the Blue Mountains; time to break out our shorts. Maybe!! We managed to check in for our upcoming reef boat trip and now it’s time to find our hotel. After schlepping our luggage on foot to the hotel, we chilled for a bit and then decided maybe it was time for some dinner. Heading back out, we wandered downtown and ate outside at a Greek restaurant.  The food, while good, was not spectacular. The best part was seeing the fruit bats -larger than life! – flying over us as we chowed down on our meal. Next we decided to wander around to find a store for some snacks for the 3-day boat trip. Life was calm and peaceful; the hotel Cairns Plaza Hotel was comfortable and had a beautiful view of the ocean. Life is good!! Feeling sated from the meal, awed by seeing large fruit bats along with the view of the ocean, we were living the good life……..

This might be the last time that we say “living the good life” for a while. We were soon being picked up at the dark hour of 06:10 in the morning to get started for out next adventure. The Pro Dive Cairns boat was a small motorized boat that housed a total of 30 guests and 5 crewmembers. Our cabin, really a closet with bunk beds, is located right off the dining room. We dropped our bags off and then started the briefing and breakfast. Okay, all is good! Bunkbeds are better than camping in rain, which we have done, and the breakfast of fresh fruit was excellent.  It was now time to head out to the reef to see the coral reefs and do some snorkeling.

Breakfast…….ahh, tasted so much better going down than coming back up. Due to sustained 25 mph winds, with gusts up to 35 mph, the boat pitched left and right, up and down, and a violent reminder of how powerful wind and waves can be. We were “calmly” sitting on the top level, rolling with the pitch of the waves when we were advised to come downstairs. We both came down and Kathy said, “I am going to go inside” and Dave followed her in. Dave said, “I am not feeling well” and did a small dry heave.  Next thing he knew Kathy was desperately asking for a barf bag where she proceeded to fill up the bag. Then Dave started, then Kathy tried to best him, then Dave said no way I am the king of the barf bags and proceeded to empty his stomach for the next couple of hours. Needless to say, from the joyous calls of the lorikeets to the sounds of retching was a dramatic change in the vacation atmosphere.  We have been on a lot of boats all over the world, and never have we had such a reaction to the motion in the ocean.  And we were not the only ones.  There were several of us going through the barf bags like a person with a cold goes through tissues.

Finally at the snorkel spot, the boat now was just doing a graceful pitch back and forth.  Dave, feeling better but not quite 100%, opted to not snorkel as yet, nor eat lunch, and Kathy was perfectly content to chill and just read her book. Dave will take the plunge probably tomorrow, while Kathy might just be content to watch the others get wet.

While we did not go snorkeling, we did enjoy meeting the other 28 guests and 5 crewmembers.  Dave counted at least 11 different countries represented on the boat.  Most of them were scuba divers, but there were about a half dozen of us content to just snorkel.  We believe that while snorkeling, we can see 80% of what the divers see.  And it is much cheaper and safer to snorkel.  We were about to find out what advantage scuba has over snorkeling.

For the mid-morning swim, Dave felt well enough to jump in with both feet.  He donned his wet suit and flippers, grabbed his mask and snorkel (and pool noodle?), and followed his fellow snorkelers overboard.  Immediately, he noticed a problem.  First, his right calf muscled cramped up mightily.  Due to his illness, he had not been eating or drinking like normal.  Still, he felt this would not impede him too much.  As he swam one-legged toward the coral reef, he encountered his second strike:  the reef was upwind from the boat.  Swimming one-legged into the wind, Dave still tried to keep up.  Third strike:  the waves.  Swimming one-legged into the wind with 2-foot waves in his face was too much for Dave to overcome.  If he stuck his face down in the water, waves would go down his snorkel; if he kept his face above water and just swam, his mask would fill with water splashing in with the waves.  Dave has snorkeled many times before and has seen the most amazing things.  He decided that the wind, waves, and cramps were not worth seeing more of the same, so he turned around and went back aboard.  Maybe if the seas calm later on, he will attempt snorkeling again.  Otherwise, he will just enjoy his relaxing time on deck with Kathy and the others who, for a variety of reasons, also did not get in the water.

 

08/01/2026 – Land ho!

After three days on a rocking boat, Kathy and Dave were never so excited to see terra firma.  The ride from the reef back to Cairns wasn’t nearly as bad as the ride out to the reef.  The boat did not rock as much, plus Kathy and Dave took some of motion sickness pills that the crew had on board.  Pro Diver Cairns dropped us off at the airport where we picked up our next rental car and started heading to Daintree, where the rainforest filled with cassowaries and crocs awaited us.  When Dave planned the trip, he failed to factor in that winter in Australia means the sun sets much earlier.  The sun set and the forest got VERY dark about half-way through out 2-hour drive.  The roads also got very narrow, very curvy, and very wet from the rain.  And then…. We encountered a ferry!  We didn’t know there was a ferry enroute.  Dave never saw it on the Google map directions.  Oh, well, we got aboard and 30 seconds later, we arrived on the other side.  Thirty seconds!  Has Australia never learned the technology to build bridges??  Anyway, along the way, we saw a critter on the side of the road.  At first, we thought maybe we had spotted our first wombat.  It was big and furry, but it was very light in color.  Wombats are brown in color, but maybe this one was old and grey-haired?

The Heritage Lodge where we ae staying is nice.  It is right in the rainforest.  It has a free breakfast, but the only wi-fi is at the reception area; there is no cell phone or internet in our cabin.  So, like the past few days aboard the board in the Pacific Ocean, we will only be posting sporadically.  Such is life as a nomad.